![]() OP, it is most likely that your pads are actually worn out and the brake system is telling you so. Then plug the old/worn/broken sensor? Won't it automatically trip the service light again? So you're saying just unplug the old sensor, plug in the new one then reset the service indicator. and hopefully, it will allow me to reset and turn off the brake warning light. I will replace both front and back sensor. I'm thinking I'll just replace the sensor and reset the service and give myself another 5k miles before considering new pads and rotors. So if you let the pads get too low then you jeopardize wearing grooves in the rotors thus causing the need for replacement. Not sure how much truth there is in this but I was told that the sensors are designed to show more wear than necessary because when the car is under warranty the stealership wants to just replace the pads and not the rotors. The sensor has to be replaced before the light will go off. Took car to my Indy shop for professional opinion and was told that pads are only worn half way. ![]() Personal inspection shows plenty of pad left. Car Detailing and Show & Shine Prep sponsored by Autogeek.I'm dealing with the same thing right now.Car Audio & Electronics sponsored by Bavsound.Tire & Wheel Forum sponsored by The Tire Rack.Suspension Tech and Handling sponsored by.Professional Motorsports sponsored by Bimmerworld.Track, Auto-X & Drag Racing sponsored by.General BMW and Automotive Discussion sponsored by Intercity Lines.Usually use aggressive entries and throw the car and then just add a lil handbrake to extend if needed, havent driven too many twisty technical courses where you're transitioning between throttle handbrake and footbrake constantly. To be completely fair though I'm not sure if Ive ever tried foot-braking while on the handbrake. It has pedal interference, but never experienced the locking issue. Oh and personally the compbrake hydraulic is nice. If I hadn't throw away so much crap during last years move I'd have the setup prototyped already. I'll over to Harri's place in the next day or so and try them out on an E36 rear end he has laying around. Have 6 of these calipers at the shop right now. Is there enough room to run extra calipers? This is a similar setup on a 03 mustang cobra You could also use another stock caliper and cut off a bracket from a junk car or another set of trailing arms and swap sides so the bleeders will be right side up cut your backing plate and mount the calipers forward of the normal ones. ![]() I am waiting for his setup to be done before I reconfigure my system. Im not sure when he will be done but I do know he is in the process of test fitting it. Meaning you can run your ebrake to half of the caliper and your normal brakes through the other half. So the two pistons on the top are seperate from the 2 pistons on the bottom. Well Sean Love is working on a setup for the E36 that would use a set of 4 piston calipers for the rear and each caliper has a seperate brake curcuit. Powered by max or comp brake make the best hydro's. Nah stay away from the ksports if you can, they look cool but the master cyl is china boop and goes bad very quickly. ![]()
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